The most recent report - “Economic Impact of North Carolina wine and grapes” - suggests that the state enjoys $1.28 billion in value from “an industry that is a unique partnership of nature, entrepreneurship, artistry and technology.”

Because the report is based on 2009 data, including a baseline of 89 wineries across North Carolina (there are now more than 100), the true economic impact is higher in 2011.

Some highlights from that report:

·         N.C. is now the 9^th largest wine producer in the U.S., driven in large part by mega-wineries Duplin  and Biltmore Estate;

·         90 percent of North Carolina’s wineries are small producers, annual case production less 5,000 for each;

·         In 2003, there were 950 acres planted to vine; in 2009, there were 1,800 acres;

·         Nearly $156 million is generated through tourism tied to wine;

·         About 1.3 million tourists visited a N.C. winery;

·         The spin-off industries tied to wine – producers of bottles, cork, labels, farming chemical, trucking services, tank manufacturing, warehousing, etc. – represent a $177 million economic ripple effect;

·          7,575 full time jobs are directly tied to N.C. wine, grapes and vineyards;

Favorite fun fact? This observation is so blazingly obvious, yet meaningful to a state buffeted by off-shore competition: “Unlike many industries, once vineyards and wineries have been established they are effectively rooted and tied inplace – a North Carolina vineyard cannot simply be relocated to another region or out-sourced to another country.”

Kiley Evans dips a wine thief into my glass, snorting a cloudy spray of Vermentino. Evans - new to North Carolina, the Vermentino rare to most Americans - is out to convince me, I think, that his winemaking is going to be a force not only in the Yadkin Valley, but well beyond.

And if he gets enough Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese, Montepulciano, Petit Verdot and Malbec into my glass, I think, who am I to argue.
 
In the barrel and tank room at Raffaldini Vineyards nuzzling the foot of the Blue Ridge and Brushy mountains,  Evans is giving me the 50-cent tour since he arrived in July. The 2011 Pinot Grigio is only weeks past fermentation,  but the bright acidity shines through. The Vermentino left in contact with the dead yeast cells - or sur lies - is surprisingly rich, in stark contast to a second tank of Vermentino that's settling out naked, without benefit of that gunk. It's crisply austere, minerally, citrusy, bright and crackling like the Italians make it. Evans will assess both individually before deciding the blend.

Raffaldini - branding itself  "Chianti in the Carolinas" - is staking itself out with the classic Italian varietals. So Evans is showing me two different Sangiovese from barrel - from different vineyards and different clones. The difference is night and day. Will they blend? Will they merge? They've just started resting in barrel, so it's too early to tell their fate.

From stainless steel tank, Evans shares Montepulciano, almost unheard of on the east coast. This juice has fermented out only to 1 percent alcohol, so it's pleasant enough as, well, grape juice. But the promise of it fruit is unmistakeable. 

The Petit Verdot tank had done a little more work, and this is an inky, tannic, astringent monster in it's youth. For winemakers, looking to blend, every one of those qualities is a plus.

We wrap with Malbec just planted in barrel and at this stage, it does little to remind me what I've experienced from it's Argentinian brethren. But it has miles to go before it peaks.

There's a million and one decisions Evans will make in this vineyard and winery he inherited this summer. He's shared with me, I think, all but maybe one. 

The way Kiley Evans sees it, he's got maybe 30 years left in him. That's 30 vintages. That's 30 growing seasons, followed by harvest, followed by an annual styling he'll perform in the tank and barrel room. Evans says he has to learn hard and learn fast how North Carolina intends to interpret these Italian grapes.

Over 30 years, most of us have plenty of opportunity to hunt and peck and pass and fail and massage the time until we get it right.

The way Kiley Evans sees it, he's got 30 more tries - 30 more finite opportunities in his lifetime - to nail Nirvana. 

So he's  

 

Best we know, RagApple Lassie and Allison Oaks are the only North Carolina wineries gutsy enough to grow Zinfandel around here.

Here's where it tends to grow really, really, well....See "Paso's Wine" here. It's a hoot.

http://www.winespectator.com/videovoting